RE: from mike,
Yup, it's the hand hammering that is the whole key...

But first...
Much better is to buy all the broken hammers from the US because they are made of very good steel. Heat them to half way between cherry and bright red and then hammer them flatter and flatter until they become a 12 inches in diameter circle and 3/64 thick. Divide the circumference to an even number that goes around perhaps40 and mark each place. At each mark draw a tooth shape copied from a made-in-china saw. With a good file, file away the parts needing removal to make the tooth shape. File away the area below each tooth so only the very point is at the full diameter. Next bend each tooth lip a little out one to the right and next to the left all around the saw. Now heat up each tooth tip area to a dull red and quickly dip on oil. Last find the exact center and drill a hole the same size as for the intended arbor.

Or:
You could make a progressive die with two hits coining and last hit to punch out. Pop them out at about one saw every 3 or 4 seconds. Run them through a tooth set hammer. Heat treat. Bump the tooth faces to grinder. Mark with name and logo and package. Cost .90 each retail for $6.00

RE: from mike,
Yup, it's the hand hammering that is the whole key...

But first...
Much better is to buy all the broken hammers from the US because they are made of very good steel. Heat them to half way between cherry and bright red and then hammer them flatter and flatter until they become a 12 inches in diameter circle and 3/64 thick. Divide the circumference to an even number that goes around perhaps 60 and mark each place. At each mark draw a tooth shape copied from a made-in-china saw. With a good file, file away the parts needing removal to make the tooth shape. File away the area below each tooth so only the very point touches. Next bend each tooth lip a little out one to the right and next to the left all around the saw. Now heat up each tooth area to a dull red and quickly dip on oil. Last find the exact center and drill a hole the some size as for the intended arbor.

Bam! There is your guy! He just forgot to add that every other tooth needs a positive rake. "keen edge to last a month?"

Smoked hams last way over a month so I would suggest to smoke saw blades with hickory and apple wood to really make them last. That way they could be somewhat odd with still having an even number of teeth... This would be a good selling point in the U.S.A. .... QVC ladies would buy them to set about their gardens. Advertise them to go well with roses and tulips.

"The saw you saw in your garden" A catch phrase makes things sell better. Perhaps "Be a cut above your neighbors garden" or "Wouldn't this look nice with your green dress?" unsure if you are making and it with what resources and budget.....

- keep it simple, make an older style spring steel blade for either metal or wood crosscut or rip cut. Use , (wood) or W1 or W2 (metal) or find a simple spring steel tool steel and give it a spring temper and aim to get the teeth in the low 50's RC. It will cut mild steel, wood aluminum etc. depending on your teeth, work with saw doctor or heat treater for tips.
- I would CAD up the blade profile with enough material for an arbor bore and tooth pitch and grinding.
- Send to sheet of you metal to waterjet cutter ($150-300) to cut out your blank.
- Set you pitch, grind arbor and cut teeth. send it to a saw doctor or saw smith ($50) or DIY on mill or other tool.
- Send it out to heat-treating facility ($150) talk to them about application and what they can do. Or DIY

hopefully nothing warped and you are good cut.
find an old saw doctor they love this shit its more interesting than re grinding teeth!

JP

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