A new production line requires careful planning and execution to ensure you get the best return on your investment. A huge component to consider is your choice of workholding, and it’s not a decision you should take lightly. Your choice will affect productivity, precision, and accuracy. None of those are elements you should leave up to chance. Most likely, your research will lead you to choose between power chucks and collet chucks. They both have distinct advantages, but it will help to have a guide about what differentiates these two workholding solutions.
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Power Chucks
A power chuck holds onto a workpiece using automated jaws to hold it securely. An average power chuck includes 3 jaws that hold onto the workpiece, but some include as many as 5 jaws. The jaws of a power chuck can be hard or soft. Soft jaws are machinable. The jaws are automated by a hydraulic actuator. The actuator will include a pressure valve that can regulate the amount of pressure exerted by the power chuck on the workpiece. Power chucks have many different customization options that make them a popular solution for workholding.
Advantages of Power Chucks
#1: Ideal for high-volume applications
A power chuck can quickly and accurately grip a workpiece because of its automated jaws. In turn, this increases production time and reduces downtime.
#2: Power chuck jaws are customizable
You can increase the number of jaws on a power chuck to increase the number of contact points on the workpiece. Machinable jaws can also be turned or bored after being attached to suit the requirements of your particular application.
#3: Made for larger workpieces
Power chucks are capable of handling a more diverse range of workpiece sizes. When the workpiece you’re holding is more cumbersome or has a large diameter, a power chuck can accommodate those needs and still retain its other advantages.
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Collect Chucks
Although power chucks and collet chucks accomplish the same goal, collet chucks perform their workholding function with a 360-degree grip. Just like a power chuck, they rely on automated power to apply the gripping force necessary. Collet chucks are smaller than power chucks, so the part held in place will sit closer to the chuck itself. A collet chuck will often require an adapter to work properly. Most collet manufacturers will include the adapter with the price of the collet chuck. It helps address disparities with threading and positioning to further optimize your workholding.
Advantages of Collet Chucks
#1 Tighter tolerances
The clamping mechanism used by a collet chuck creates a tighter tolerance for your workpiece because it completely surrounds what it’s gripping. Tighter tolerances increase precision on your line, which is always a top priority.
#2 Increased speed
A collet chuck’s smaller size means it can handle higher rpms than a power chuck. The tighter tolerance of a collet chuck combined with the increased speed maximizes your productivity.
#3 Optimal for smaller workpieces
The invention of collet chucks filled an important gap in workholding. They can hold much smaller workpieces. When your production line includes smaller, more detailed work, a collet chuck can provide the perfect solution.
Need a Consultation?
If you’ve read the recommendations above and still don’t feel confident enough to choose for yourself, then you can count on the team at Stace-Allen Chucks to help you make an informed decision. Our engineers will not only help you choose between power chucks and collet chucks but will also provide unparalleled expertise about which customizations will make production an even smoother and more efficient process. We have spent three generations as power chuck and collet manufacturers, and we have plenty of experience working with independent machine distributors and other companies involved in CNC machining operations. Contact us today to get started and gain the confidence you crave from your workholding solutions.
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Bringing in a big turning center (big to me). A2-8 spindle nose, 12" chuck, 3.5" bar capacity. Machine will still run up to RPM so wanted to get a collet chuck for it. I can get a Royal 5C that will go on an A2-8. Is a 5C ridiculous - should I go with 16C or 3J? My reasoning was anything over an inch I would just use the chuck with hard or soft jaws as the 16C and 3J collets are quite expensive relative to 5C. Biggest concern is probably drawtube force with such a big draw cylinder - will the pressure adjustment be sensative enough to not destroy 5C collets?
I use a 5C set of collet pad jaws on a Kitagawa 10" chuck several times a week, and have yet to have an issue. It's far simpler and cheaper to use a 5C collet than bore jaws for smaller parts, but I throw anything up to 1 1/16 into a 5C when I can. I can only think a real 5C chuck would be better. I'm simply too lazy to change chucks.
Stu
I have a royal 5c chuck on mine, and really wish I would have got a 16C and then an adapter down to 5c to use the cheaper collets on the small stuff.
The other thing to double check when purchasing a collet chuck is the length. In the size for my machine there was a 5" and a 6" length chuck. I opted for the 5" thinking it would be more rigid. The problem was I should of got the 6" as the parts catcher will not go close enough to the shorter chuck to catch parts. So be sure and look at everything in the machine before buying.
Man, you really can't beat the convenience provided by a collet chuck.
All my machines have collet chucks, including the latest and greatest with the sub.
5C is actually a very good choice for barwork up-to 1" as it is wicked quick to changeover and it will hold dead nuts concentric.
My SL10 has a 5C
The Duraturn ( 10" ) has a 5C and a Microcentric with S26 master up-to 2 5/8
The NL has a 5C and a Royal closer with an S26 master.
The NL subspindle has both, a pullback and a dead length 5C colletchuck.
No problem with the power of the hydraulic actuator and the 5C collet but you should turn it down to a lower pressure.
About the only thing you'll be having issues with is installing and removing that 12" chuck of yours. You better be growing some muscles or figure out a rig to suspend/hold the chuck while you're screwing it on the drawtube.
The 5C chuck is wicked easy and simple, usually no backing plate, just 6 bolts and done.
A 5C in that machine?
I would reccommend a set of S26's. (2-5/8" capacity)
You could easilly go to S30's or bigger, but if your thinking that you wouldn't likely see werk that size - I am sure that you will have much better price and availability with the S26's.
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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Ox
I'd consider a 5C no matter what as the chuck is dirt cheap and so are the collets, of which there are an incredible amount of choices to pick from.
Not to mention that you won't hold anything by it's ID on an S-style collet, but it is a no brainer on a 5C.
I would however recommend to get a 5C chuck with a threaded nose so you can put on the Hardinge style step-collets with the external closer.
How about collet jaws?
Not sure if this would interest you or not but I machined a set of soft jaws to hold W&S #3 collet pads (1.5" max) as opposed to a collet chuck. Picked up a complete set of round, hex and square collets off of Fleebay for ~$100 bucks.
Had a set of used aluminum jaws laying around so made a test set with them first but that was a couple of years ago and their still going strong.
Disclaimer...Not my original Idea, it did came from another PM member.
Not sure if this would interest you or not but I machined a set of soft jaws to hold W&S #3 collet pads (1.5" max) as opposed to a collet chuck. Picked up a complete set of round, hex and square collets off of Fleebay for ~$100 bucks.
Had a set of used aluminum jaws laying around so made a test set with them first but that was a couple of years ago and their still going strong.
Disclaimer...Not my original Idea, it did came from another PM member.
We did the same thing with #3 and #4 pads. We also have 3J collets and an extended collet chuck. The W&S collet pad jaws are so easy and quick to install that we only go to the 3J when we need the clearance for boring bars, and are going to do a lot of parts with the bar puller. With your machine you'll probably want #4 or #5 pads.
If you buy the 3J chuck, you can use an adapter to use 5C collets. I bought one but haven't used it yet.
I would still get the largest capacity collet chuck you can afford. 5C only goes up to 1-1/8 diameter. If your assuming you can run everything else in the chuck, you're going to run into problems running 1.25 parts, in a 12 inch chuck. Not that it can't be done, just pretty impractical. You'll be needing a fairly new set of soft jaws to use at that small of diameter on a 12 inch chuck.
VSMI, I'd opt for the largest collet set up you can. Our Hardinge has the A2-5 / 16C combo spindle, which is really nice, but is limited to 1-5/8" which has put a damper on some projects. I have become a huge fan of collets over chuck jaws...great clamping power, awesome runout, super fast acc/dec of the spindle, nice and close to the spindle face so it's rigid. I have even gone for a 16C step collet (eg 1-5/8" hex slugged) over soft jaws on some special "bolts" we ran for a one time job...I don't think I could have bored soft jaws for what the step collet ran.
Anyway, my vote would be at least a 16C, 20C or 3J would be even better, but collets are not as readily available. I have purchased quite a few from Hardinge, and even have bought some Lyndex from MSC in a pinch. We do have the Hardinge 16C/5C adapter so we can use the cheap 5C's, but usually just go for the 16C's if needed as they generally only run about $70. Sometimes you can find them on FleaBay for a pretty ood bargain, but really, the difference between a good Hardinge or Lyndex 5C and 16C isn't all that much over the course of a few hundred parts.
Steve