Handheld Circular Saw & Blade Buying Guide - Lowe's

14 Jul.,2025

 

Handheld Circular Saw & Blade Buying Guide - Lowe's

Circular Saw Basics

Circular saws make quick, straight cuts across a board (crosscuts) or along the board’s length (rip cuts). You can also set a circular saw to make bevel cuts. Standard components on a circular saw include:

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  • A blade guard that covers the blade when the saw isn’t in use and retracts to expose the blade during use 
  • A foot plate or shoe that steadies the saw against the work piece 
  • A depth adjustment to allow for work pieces of different thicknesses 
  • A bevel adjustment that lets the foot plate tilt in relation to the blade for making bevel cuts 

Circular saw sizes are usually classified by the diameter of their blades. Sizes of 5-1/2 to 7-1/4 inches are the most common. There are also many options available on circular saws. Choose the best circular saw for your specific needs.

There are two basic designs:

  • Sidewinder or inline saws are the most common and traditional circular saws. The motor is located along the same axis as the blade. A shaft runs directly from the motor to drive the blade. Sidewinder saws are more compact and lightweight than worm drive saws. They’re well suited to most circular saw applications.
  • Worm drive saws have their motors positioned at a right angle to the saw blade. The motor uses gears to increase the torque transferred to the blade, making the worm drive saw well suited for heavy-duty use. Worm drive saws are longer and tend to be quieter than sidewinder saws.

Circular saws can make various types of cuts. Watch our DIY Basics video: What’s That Cut Called?

Circular Saw Power Sources

Where and how you use your circular saw will help determine the power supply you need. Two types are available:

  • Cordless circular saws are convenient when working in areas where extension cords are difficult to use. Since they’re smaller than most corded saws, they work well in confined spaces. Cordless saws are best suited to cutting wood and wood products due to their battery limitations. While they can cut tough materials, the extra power needed for those applications drains batteries quickly. Cordless saws typically range in size from 5-3/8 to 6-1/2 inches.
  • Corded circular saws don’t depend on batteries for power and are better suited for tough cutting jobs, such as masonry, steel and continuous woodcutting. Corded saws are available in many sizes; the most common is 7-1/4 inches. A corded circular saw requires a suitable extension cord. Follow the device manufacturer’s recommendations for compatible extension cords and see Power Cord Safety Tips.

Circular Saw Features

Always unplug corded power tools and disconnect the battery on cordless power tools before servicing them.

  • Blade capacity determines the maximum depth of cut a saw can achieve. The larger the blade, the deeper the cut. The most common blade diameter is 7-1/4 inches. Most saws with blade capacities of 6 inches or more can cut through 2-inch dimensional lumber at a 45-degree angle in a single pass. A 5-3/8-inch saw can cut through 2-inch dimensional lumber in one pass at 90 degrees but requires two passes at 45 degrees. As a general rule, a mini circular saw or multi-function circular saw is easier to control because it weighs less.
  • Electric brakes reverse the flow of electricity in the saw motor when the trigger is released. Reversing the current stops the blade’s momentum quickly. Electric brakes can stop the blade in as little as two seconds — much quicker than a blade on a saw without this feature.
  • Spindle or shaft locks make it easier to change the saw blade. The shaft lock immobilizes the shaft and blade, making it much easier to change the blade.
  • Bevel capacity indicates the maximum bevel cut the saw can make.
  • Bevel stops are presets that allow quick adjustments for bevel cuts.
  • Laser guides help improve cutting accuracy by projecting a beam of light onto the work piece.
Caution

Always unplug corded power tools and disconnect the battery on cordless power tools before servicing them.

Which Circular Saw Blades Do I Need?

Handheld circular saws, table saws and miter saws are common do-it-yourself tools that use circular saw blades. These blades are typically designed for cutting wood or wood composites. You can also find blades for circular saws, miter saws and table saws that cut plastic, vinyl and more. 

As you’re looking at blades for these tools, keep these general tips in mind:

  • Blades with fewer teeth cut faster, but those with more teeth create a finer finish. 
  • Gullets between the teeth remove chips from the work piece. Deeper gullets often mean more aggressive teeth and faster cutting.
  • Expansion slots help prevent warping as a blade heats and cools during use. They also reduce vibration, creating a straighter cut.

Other power saws also utilize circular blades, including

  • Tile saws
  • Concrete saws
  • Chop saws
  • Grinders

Circular Saw Blade Applications

We’ll show you several types of circular saw blades below, starting with standard blades you’d commonly use with a handheld saw, miter saw or table saw.

Good to Know

Table saw blades and miter saw blades have a similar design to handheld saw blades but have a larger diameter.

Rip-Cut Blades

Rip-cut blades are best for cutting along the grain of the wood (usually along the length of a board). You might use one of these blades when you’re reducing the width of a board.

  • For use on wood, but will cause excessive splintering on plywood
  • Usually have 16 to 40 teeth designed to cut quickly and aggressively
  • Have deep gullets that provide good chip removal

Crosscut Blades

Crosscut blades are designed for cutting across the woodgrain (across the face of a board) as you would do when cutting a board to a particular length. 

  • For use on wood
  • Usually have 40 to 80 teeth
  • Feature smaller gullets than rip-cut blades
  • Don’t cut as quickly as rip-cut blades but create cleaner edges

Combination Blades

Combination blades are good general purpose blades. They can effectively make both rip cuts and crosscuts. 

  • For use on wood
  • Have multiple groupings of teeth; each group with one tooth for ripping and four for crosscutting
  • Have deep gullets for good chip removal

Framing Blades

Framing blades are perfect for jobs where speed is important and the quality of the cut doesn’t matter.

  • For use on wood, particularly dimensional lumber
  • Effective for rough carpentry
  • Have 18 to 24 teeth

Plywood Blades

As the name suggests, these blades are primarily designed for cutting plywood to size.

  • For use on plywood to reduce splintering
  • Have 100 teeth or more
  • Cut slower than some blades but leave a cleaner finish

Demolition Blades

Demolition blades are another type of blade you’d use when speed and capability are more important than a clean cut.

  • For use on dimensional lumber and plywood
  • Have low tooth counts for fast, aggressive cutting
  • Are often capable of cutting wood embedded with nails
  • May have a narrow profile (thin kerf) for easier cutting and less material waste than other blades

Fine-Finish Blades

These blades are designed for applications where the quality of the cut is most important, such as for cabinet building and joinery.

  • Ideal for cutting wood, composite decking, melamine, plastic and vinyl
  • Typically have 60 teeth or more
  • Often have a narrow profile (thin kerf) for easier cutting and less material waste than other blades
Tip

Blade diameter, arbor hole size, number of teeth and kerf (the thickness of the cut the blade creates) are typically printed on the face of a circular saw blade. You may also see a list of appropriate tool types as well as maximum revolutions per minute (RPM) and application specifications.

Continuous-Rim Blades

Continuous-rim blades are usually a type of diamond-edged blade — sometimes called diamond blades.

  • For use on materials like tile and slate
  • Don’t have teeth and gullets like a standard circular saw blade 
  • Have diamonds affixed to the blade edge
  • Create a very clean finish
  • Available for dry-cutting only, wet-cutting only or for both applications
Caution

While some blades are suitable for wet and dry applications, make sure your saw is suitable for the type of cutting you need to do.

Turbo-Rim Blades

Turbo-rim blades are diamond blades similar to continuous-rim blades. They lack the teeth and gullets of standard blades but have a serrated rim.

  • Can cut materials like brick and concrete
  • Cut more aggressively than continuous-rim blades but don’t leave as clean a finish
  • For dry-cutting only or for both wet and dry applications

Segmented Blades

Segmented blades also typically cut with diamond edges but have a rim divided by gullets similar to those on a standard blade.

  • Can cut tough materials like brick and concrete
  • Have the most aggressive cut of the diamond blade types
  • Cut more quickly than the other diamond blade types but leave a rough finish
  • For dry-cutting only or for both wet and dry applications

Abrasive Blades

Like diamond blades, abrasive blades don’t have teeth. They cut with an abrasive material, such as aluminum oxide.

  • Can cut materials like brick and concrete
  • Depending on the blade, may be suitable as a metal-cutting circular saw blade

Stacked Dado Blade Sets

Stacked dado blades are woodcutting accessories designed for use on table saws or miter saws.

  • For use on wood
  • Include two circular saw blades as well as several chipper blades and shims
  • Use to cut grooves (dados) in wood to receive another piece of wood, such as for shelves on a bookcase
  • Different combinations of blades and shims create grooves of different widths
Caution

Follow the blade and saw manufacturers' instructions for use and safety.

Which Circular Saw Blade is Right for My Power Saw?

Each type of circular saw blade is designed to cut different material and work with specific power saws. Be certain the blade you choose is suitable for the material you need to cut and that it fits your saw. Your saw manual should provide information on compatible blades, but here are some quick tips.

  • Handheld circular saws typically accept blades 4-1/2 inches to 7-1/4 inches in diameter. The teeth are often carbide tipped to stay sharp longer.
  • Tile saws most often use 7-inch or 10-inch diamond blades.
  • Table saws and compound miter saws use blades 8-1/4 inches or 10 inches in diameter. Like those for handheld saws, the blades are usually carbide tipped. 
  • Miter saws are usually designed for 7-1/4-inch, 10-inch or 12-inch blades. These blades are also usually carbide tipped.
  • Circular saw blades for metal, such as those for use on metal-cutting chop saws — also called abrasive saws or cut-off saws — are often 14-inch aluminum oxide abrasive blades or carbide-tipped toothed blades.

Check the size of the arbor hole, or the hole in the center of the blade. It must fit the arbor or shaft on your saw. Some blades with a circular arbor hole include a piece you can knock out to allow them to fit saws with a diamond-shaped arbor.

Check the maximum RPM rating of the blade to make sure it’s compatible with the tool you plan to use.

Learn how to choose the best power saw for your projects:

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  • Table Saw Buying Guide
  • Compound Miter Saw Buying Guide
  • Garage Tool Storage Buying Guide

How to Change a Circular Saw Blade

The steps for changing a circular saw blade will vary by tool type. You should always refer to your saw manual for specific instructions on changing a blade, but here are some general tips for changing a blade on a handheld circular saw:

  1. Unplug the tool or disconnect the battery.
  2. Engage the blade lock button on the saw.
  3. Fit the included blade wrench onto the head of the blade stud or arbor. You may need to use the wrench to rotate the blade slightly to let the blade lock fully set.
  4. With the blade immobilized, turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen and remove the stud and the outer blade washer.
  5. Carefully move the lower blade guard out of the way and remove the blade through the slot in the saw foot or base.
  6. Position the new blade to rotate in the correct direction and slide it up through the slot and onto the blade shaft, against the inner blade washer.
  7. Make sure the outer washer is in place and install the blade stud. Turn the stud clockwise by hand until it’s finger tight. Lock the blade and use the included wrench to tighten it slightly according to the manufacturer’s instructions (for example, 1/8 turn or to specific guide markings). Don’t overtighten.
Caution

Wear heavy-duty work gloves when handling the saw blade. 

When loosening and tightening the blade stud, use only the included wrench. Other wrenches may overtighten the stud.

Sharpening a Circular Saw Blade

If you need to sharpen a circular saw blade, take it to a professional. Sharpening some blades require specialty tools that most do-it-yourselfers don’t have. Attempting to sharpen other types of circular saw blades yourself risks ruining the blades. 

To reduce the need to sharpen your blades, look for carbide-tipped blades. They’re more expensive than other blades, but they stay sharp much longer than steel or high-speed steel blades.

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Choosing The Right Saw Blade For Your Project - Rockler


Making smooth, safe cuts with your table saw, radial-arm saw, chop saw or sliding compound miter saw depends on having the right blade for the tool and for the type of cut you want to make. There's no shortage of quality options, and the sheer volume of available blades could bewilder even an experienced woodworker. That's why we've put together this article. It's part glossary and part guide, with important basic information to help you make the right selection saw blade selection for your project.


How Do I Choose The Right Saw Blade?


A good way to narrow your options and focus your search is to answer a few key questions:

In what type of saw will the blade be used?
Some blades are designed to be used in particular saws, so you'll want to be sure to get the right blade for the tool. Using the wrong type of blade for the saw is likely to produce poor results and might in some cases be dangerous.


What materials will the blade be used to cut?
If you need to cut a wide range of materials, that will affect your choice. If you cut a lot of a single type of material (melamine, for example) that specialization also might affect your choice.


What types of cuts will the blade be used to make?
Will you be using the saw blade exclusively for crosscutting (cutting across the woodgrain)or will it be used only for ripping (cutting with the grain)? Will it need to produce good results in all types of cuts?


Do you want to build a collection of specialized blades, or do you want one blade that can make all kinds of cuts?
Are you willing to change the blade every time you switch from one cut to another?


How powerful is the saw on which the blade will be used, and what size blade does the manufacturer recommend?
Is it a 3 hp cabinet table saw or a portable job-site saw? Is it a 10" saw or 12"?


Answering these questions will go a long way toward clarifying your best options. Understanding a little about the anatomy of a saw blade can help further narrow your search.


Saw Blade Essentials

Many saw blades are designed to provide their best results in a particular cutting operation. You can get specialized blades for ripping lumber, crosscutting lumber, cutting veneered plywood and panels, cutting laminates and plastics, cutting melamine and cutting non-ferrous metals. There also are general purpose and combination blades, which are designed to work well in two or more types of cuts. (Combination blades are designed to crosscut and rip.

General-purpose saw blades are designed to make all types of cuts, including in plywood, laminated wood and melamine.) What a blade does best is determined, in part, by the number of teeth, the size of gullet, the tooth configuration and the hook angle (angle of the tooth).


Number Of Teeth

In general, saw blades with more teeth yield a smoother cut, and blades with fewer teeth remove material faster. A 10" blade designed for ripping lumber, for example, usually has as few as 24 teeth and is designed to quickly remove material along the length of the grain. A rip blade isn't designed to yield a mirror-smooth cut, but a good rip blade will move through hardwood with little effort and leave a clean cut with minimal scoring.

A crosscut blade, on the other hand, is designed to produce a smooth cut across the grain of the wood, without splintering or tearing. This type of blade will usually have 60 to 80 teeth, and the higher tooth count means that each tooth has to remove less material. A crosscut blade makes many more individual cuts as it moves through the stock than a ripping blade and, as a result, requires a slower feed rate. The result is a cleaner cut on edges and a smoother cut surface. With a top-quality crosscut blade, the cut surface will appear polished.


Gullet

The gullet is the space in front of each tooth to allow for chip removal. In a ripping operation, the feed rate is faster and the chip size is bigger, so the gullet needs to be deep enough for the large amount of material it has to handle. In a crosscutting blade, the chips are smaller and fewer per tooth, so the gullet is much smaller. The gullets on some crosscutting blades also are purposely sized small to inhibit a too-fast feed rate, which can be a problem especially on radial-arm and sliding miter saws.The gullets of a combination blade are designed to handle both ripping and crosscutting. The large gullets between the groups of teeth help clear out the larger amounts of material generated in ripping. The smaller gullets between the grouped teeth inhibit a too-fast feed rate in crosscutting.

Blade Tooth Configuration

The shape of the saw blade tooth and the way the teeth are grouped also affect the way the blade cuts. The configuration of the teeth on a saw blade has a lot to do with whether the blade will work best for ripping, crosscutting or laminates.


Flat-Top (FT)
Flat-top teeth are used on blades for ripping hard and soft woods. Because wood is much less likely to chip and splinter when it is being cut with the grain, a rip blade is designed to quickly and efficiently remove material. The flat-top tooth is the most efficient design for cutting and raking material out of the cut.

Alternate Top Bevel (ATB)
This means that the blade teeth alternate between a right- and left-hand bevel. This configuration yields a smoother cut when crosscutting natural woods and veneered plywood. The alternating beveled teeth form a knife-like edge on either side of the blade and make a cleaner cut than flat-top teeth.

High Alternate Top Bevel (Hi-ATB)
The Hi-ATB configuration is used for extra-fine crosscutting and to cut materials surfaced with melamine, which is prone to chipping. The high bevel angle increases the knife-like action at the edge of the blade.

Triple Chip Grind
The TCG configuration excels at cutting hard materials such as laminates, MDF and plastics. Teeth alternate between a flat "raking" tooth and a higher "trapeze" tooth. The TCG configuration is also used for non-ferrous metal cutting blades.

Combination Tooth (Comb)
Combination blades are designed to do both crosscutting and ripping. The teeth are arranged in groups of five – four ATB teeth and one FT – with a large gullet between the groups.


Hook Angle

Hook angle has an important effect on blade operation. A blade with high positive hook angle (say, 20°) will yield a very aggressive cut and a fast feed rate. A low or negative hook angle will slow the feed rate and will also inhibit the blade's tendency to "climb" the material being cut. A blade for ripping lumber on a table saw will generally have a high hook angle, where an aggressive, fast cut is usually what you want. Radial-arm saws and sliding compound miter saws, on the other hand, require a blade with a very low or negative hook angle to inhibit overly fast feed rate, binding and the blade's tendency to "climb" the material.

Kerf Width Is Another Important Consideration

Many blade types are available in both full-kerf and thin-kerf varieties. Full-kerf blades typically cut a 1/8" slot and are intended for use on saws powered by 3 hp (or greater) motors.

Thin-kerf saw blades have a thickness of less than 1/8" and were developed for use on portable and jobsite table saws with motors of less than 3 hp. Because a thin-kerf blade has to remove less material than a full-kerf blade, it requires less power to operate and allows lower-powered saws to cut material at an appropriate feed rate without the risk of bogging down during the cut. (Bogging down causes excessive friction; as a result, the blade heats up and can become distorted or burn the cut surface.)

The potential trade-off for the thinner kerf is the fact that the blade plate is thinner and therefore might be expected to vibrate more than a thicker, more rigid plate. However, technological advances in blade design have generated thin-kerf blades that rival the best industrial-quality full-kerf saw blades. Vibration-dampening systems, like the one used with Freud thin-kerf blades, compensate for the slight loss of stability and make thin-kerf blades the optimum choice for lower-powered saws.

Saw Blade Teeth Quality

The teeth on most high-quality saw blades are thick carbide tips that have been fused (or brazed) to the steel blade plate. How long the blade will stay sharp, how cleanly it will cut and how many re-sharpenings it will take all depend on the quality of the cutting tips. On some of the best blades, the carbide is formulated specifically for the application of the blade, and a tri-metal brazing process is used to attach the carbide cutters to the blade plate. This process, in which a layer of copper alloy is sandwiched between layers of silver alloy, provides extra flexibility and impact resistance. At a minimum, look for a blade with C3 grade micro-grain carbide teeth, which are thick enough to allow a number of re-sharpenings.


Bringing It All Together

So which blade is right for you? Collect your answers to the questions at the beginning of this article and go to Rockler.com, where you can search our selection of blades by brand, blade type, blade diameter, material to be cut and price. If you are planning to cut a variety of materials and prefer not spend time frequently changing from one specialty blade to another, a general-purpose blade is a good choice.

Are you interested in learning more about Saw Blades Manufacturer? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

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