Circular Saws, Corded and Cordless Buying Guide

If you ask a professional about a saw, they will probably name a mitre saw, a circular saw and a jigsaw. However, hobbyists and beginners don’t need the mitre saw and jigsaw. What they definitely need, though, is a circular saw. They can be divided into two types: in-line and worm drive. The design depends on the amount of torque the motor provides and its location. In other words, the most powerful saw is not necessary the best.

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In-Line Saws

In-line saws that are also called sidewinder saws have the motor placed perpendicular to the blade. They are really popular among homeowners since they are lightweight and compact. The motor is often on the right, which allows left-hand users a good view of a cut line. But you can also find models for right-hand users.

The main benefit of these saws is a small motor that allows for incredible portability of the tool. However, it also means lower torque. That’s why these saws are often used for small projects. For heavy-duty projects, it is better to get a model with higher torque.

Worm-Drive Saws

While the in-line saws are more popular, the worm-drive saws are the main choice of professionals. They are heavier than the previous type of saws and can put strain on your arms. Most models are corded because batteries can’t handle the large motor.

The worm-drive saws can handle every project that requires a saw. It can quickly slice though concrete and stone.

High Cutting Power

Whatever model you choose, it should be able to cut wood without bogging down. For hobbyists, a 15 amp in-line saw is enough to stand up to the densest types of wood. In-line saws run at lower speeds than worm-drive saws, thus ensuring more power on each push. However, not all in-line saws can handle tough wood like lumber; you will have to get a worm-drive saw to manage these projects.

Quality Blade Guard

You should make sure the blade-guard is snug-free. Blade guard can also be quite annoying when it accidentally stops the saw. This will happen if you’re trimming a small piece off. Many professionals pin back the blade guards, or even remove them. However, you can’t be fully protected if the blade-guard is disabled. Thus you should choose a model with a blade guard that can handle all angles and depths. Those models that have a large protruding lobe often work the best.

Speaking of safety, you should check the spindle lock that keeps the blade from moving when you switch them. You saw should also have a safety switch to prevent starts. Some models have an electric blade break which makes the blade to quickly stop. If your saw doesn’t have this feature, you will have to wait until the blade stops spinning.

A Reliable Base Plate

A base plate is the part that breaks down most often. Those plates that are made of stainless steel can become a headache because they bend easily. Cast aluminum or magnesium plates are more durable but they will crack if you accidentally drop the saw. Fiber-reinforced plastic plates are the most durable; they are ribbed and thick.

Good Connection between the Blade and the Plate

Whether model you choose, its motor will be connected to the base plate. It allows you to adjust the depth and the bevel angle. Older models can have the pivot point placed in line with the blade guars, which will give you the bevel you don’t want. Models that don’t have a pivot point in line with the handle are more stable.

Smooth Bevel Adjustment

If you’re going to do framing work, especially roofs, you should get a saw with a smooth bevel function. The base should pivot without problems, too. Modern models have bevel stops that can be used in angles, but you should also be able to set the bevel to any angle you need.

Convenient Depth Adjustment

To handle many projects, you will need to adjust the depth of your cuts. Thus, you need to be able to move the base plate without problems. It is not that easy to do on circular saws with inboard levers that are tucked between the guard and the handle. Thus, it is better to get a model with outboard levers and keep one hand on the handle while adjusting the blade depth. Besides, you can quickly grasp the levers when they are coated in rubber. The depth scale should be marked – the larger the numbers, the better.

Clear Cut-line Visibility

If you want to make clear cuts, you need the cut-line marker to be aligned with the cutting edge of the blade. The best models allow you to cut either to the left or to the right of the line. However, when you can’t see your cut-line, your saw should provide a clear sight to the blade.

Electric Brakes

Electric breaks stop the motor within seconds after pushing the trigger, while saws without electric brakes require between 10 to 15 seconds to stop. The electric brake can quickly revise the flow of electricity to make the tool stop. The main reason why many choose electric brakes is to save limbs and fingers. Quickly stopping the brakes means less likely to get hurt or damage your work. Besides, most modern models have it anyway.

Blade capacity

Just like other tools, circular saws have a wide range of blade sizes. But if you’re getting a corded model, you will probably get 7, 1/4 inches but cordless drills have two popular options, the 7, 1/4 inches and 6, 1/2 inches. Your choice should depend on your needs. For example, larger blades are heavier but allow you to make fewer cuts. Besides, it is more convenient to make angle cuts with bigger blades.

Shaft locks

A shaft lock is a button that you can press to hold the blades still. Make sure your model has this feature because it makes blade changing much easier. Cheaper models usually don’t have shaft locks but middle-class and professional saws have.

Circular Saw Basics

Circular saws make quick, straight cuts across a board (crosscuts) or along the board’s length (rip cuts). You can also set a circular saw to make bevel cuts. Standard components on a circular saw include:

• A blade guard that covers the blade when the saw isn’t in use and retracts to expose the blade during use 
• A foot plate or shoe that steadies the saw against the work piece 
• A depth adjustment to allow for work pieces of different thicknesses 
• A bevel adjustment that lets the foot plate tilt in relation to the blade for making bevel cuts 

Circular saw sizes are usually classified by the diameter of their blades. Sizes of 5-1/2 to 7-1/4 inches are the most common. There are also many options available on circular saws. Choose the best circular saw for your specific needs.

There are two basic designs:

• Sidewinder or inline saws are the most common and traditional circular saws. The motor is located along the same axis as the blade. A shaft runs directly from the motor to drive the blade. Sidewinder saws are more compact and lightweight than worm drive saws. They’re well suited to most circular saw applications.
• Worm drive saws have their motors positioned at a right angle to the saw blade. The motor uses gears to increase the torque transferred to the blade, making the worm drive saw well suited for heavy-duty use. Worm drive saws are longer and tend to be quieter than sidewinder saws.

Circular saws can make various types of cuts. Watch our DIY Basics video: What’s That Cut Called?

Circular Saw Power Sources

Where and how you use your circular saw will help determine the power supply you need. Two types are available:

• Cordless circular saws are convenient when working in areas where extension cords are difficult to use. Since they’re smaller than most corded saws, they work well in confined spaces. Cordless saws are best suited to cutting wood and wood products due to their battery limitations. While they can cut tough materials, the extra power needed for those applications drains batteries quickly. Cordless saws typically range in size from 5-3/8 to 6-1/2 inches.
• Corded circular saws don’t depend on batteries for power and are better suited for tough cutting jobs, such as masonry, steel and continuous woodcutting. Corded saws are available in many sizes; the most common is 7-1/4 inches. A corded circular saw requires a suitable extension cord. Follow the device manufacturer’s recommendations for compatible extension cords and see Power Cord Safety Tips.

Circular Saw Features

Always unplug corded power tools and disconnect the battery on cordless power tools before servicing them.

• Blade capacity determines the maximum depth of cut a saw can achieve. The larger the blade, the deeper the cut. The most common blade diameter is 7-1/4 inches. Most saws with blade capacities of 6 inches or more can cut through 2-inch dimensional lumber at a 45-degree angle in a single pass. A 5-3/8-inch saw can cut through 2-inch dimensional lumber in one pass at 90 degrees but requires two passes at 45 degrees. As a general rule, a mini circular saw or multi-function circular saw is easier to control because it weighs less.
• Electric brakes reverse the flow of electricity in the saw motor when the trigger is released. Reversing the current stops the blade’s momentum quickly. Electric brakes can stop the blade in as little as two seconds — much quicker than a blade on a saw without this feature.
• Spindle or shaft locks make it easier to change the saw blade. The shaft lock immobilizes the shaft and blade, making it much easier to change the blade.
• Bevel capacity indicates the maximum bevel cut the saw can make.
• Bevel stops are presets that allow quick adjustments for bevel cuts.
• Laser guides help improve cutting accuracy by projecting a beam of light onto the work piece.

Caution

Always unplug corded power tools and disconnect the battery on cordless power tools before servicing them.

Which Circular Saw Blades Do I Need?

Handheld circular saws, table saws and miter saws are common do-it-yourself tools that use circular saw blades. These blades are typically designed for cutting wood or wood composites. You can also find blades for circular saws, miter saws and table saws that cut plastic, vinyl and more. 

As you’re looking at blades for these tools, keep these general tips in mind:

• Blades with fewer teeth cut faster, but those with more teeth create a finer finish. 
  
• Gullets between the teeth remove chips from the work piece. Deeper gullets often mean more aggressive teeth and faster cutting.
• Expansion slots help prevent warping as a blade heats and cools during use. They also reduce vibration, creating a straighter cut.

Other power saws also utilize circular blades, including

Are you interested in learning more about Cordless Circular Saw? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

• Tile saws
• Concrete saws
• Chop saws
  
• Grinders

Circular Saw Blade Applications

We’ll show you several types of circular saw blades below, starting with standard blades you’d commonly use with a handheld saw, miter saw or table saw.

Good to Know

Table saw blades and miter saw blades have a similar design to handheld saw blades but have a larger diameter.

Rip-Cut Blades

Rip-cut blades are best for cutting along the grain of the wood (usually along the length of a board). You might use one of these blades when you’re reducing the width of a board.

• For use on wood, but will cause excessive splintering on plywood
  
• Usually have 16 to 40 teeth designed to cut quickly and aggressively
  
• Have deep gullets that provide good chip removal

Crosscut Blades

Crosscut blades are designed for cutting across the woodgrain (across the face of a board) as you would do when cutting a board to a particular length. 

• For use on wood
  
• Usually have 40 to 80 teeth
  
• Feature smaller gullets than rip-cut blades
  
• Don’t cut as quickly as rip-cut blades but create cleaner edges
  

Combination Blades

Combination blades are good general purpose blades. They can effectively make both rip cuts and crosscuts. 

• For use on wood
  
• Have multiple groupings of teeth; each group with one tooth for ripping and four for crosscutting
  
• Have deep gullets for good chip removal

Framing Blades

Framing blades are perfect for jobs where speed is important and the quality of the cut doesn’t matter.

• For use on wood, particularly dimensional lumber
  
• Effective for rough carpentry
  
• Have 18 to 24 teeth
  

Plywood Blades

As the name suggests, these blades are primarily designed for cutting plywood to size.

• For use on plywood to reduce splintering
• Have 100 teeth or more
• Cut slower than some blades but leave a cleaner finish

Demolition Blades

Demolition blades are another type of blade you’d use when speed and capability are more important than a clean cut.

• For use on dimensional lumber and plywood
• Have low tooth counts for fast, aggressive cutting
• Are often capable of cutting wood embedded with nails
• May have a narrow profile (thin kerf) for easier cutting and less material waste than other blades

Fine-Finish Blades

These blades are designed for applications where the quality of the cut is most important, such as for cabinet building and joinery.

• Ideal for cutting wood, composite decking, melamine, plastic and vinyl
• Typically have 60 teeth or more
• Often have a narrow profile (thin kerf) for easier cutting and less material waste than other blades

Tip

Blade diameter, arbor hole size, number of teeth and kerf (the thickness of the cut the blade creates) are typically printed on the face of a circular saw blade. You may also see a list of appropriate tool types as well as maximum revolutions per minute (RPM) and application specifications.

Continuous-Rim Blades

Continuous-rim blades are usually a type of diamond-edged blade — sometimes called diamond blades.

• For use on materials like tile and slate
• Don’t have teeth and gullets like a standard circular saw blade 
• Have diamonds affixed to the blade edge
• Create a very clean finish
• Available for dry-cutting only, wet-cutting only or for both applications

Caution

While some blades are suitable for wet and dry applications, make sure your saw is suitable for the type of cutting you need to do.

Turbo-Rim Blades

Turbo-rim blades are diamond blades similar to continuous-rim blades. They lack the teeth and gullets of standard blades but have a serrated rim.

• Can cut materials like brick and concrete
  
• Cut more aggressively than continuous-rim blades but don’t leave as clean a finish
  
• For dry-cutting only or for both wet and dry applications
  

Segmented Blades

Segmented blades also typically cut with diamond edges but have a rim divided by gullets similar to those on a standard blade.

• Can cut tough materials like brick and concrete
  
• Have the most aggressive cut of the diamond blade types
  
• Cut more quickly than the other diamond blade types but leave a rough finish
  
• For dry-cutting only or for both wet and dry applications
  

Abrasive Blades

Like diamond blades, abrasive blades don’t have teeth. They cut with an abrasive material, such as aluminum oxide.

• Can cut materials like brick and concrete
• Depending on the blade, may be suitable as a metal-cutting circular saw blade

Stacked Dado Blade Sets

Stacked dado blades are woodcutting accessories designed for use on table saws or miter saws.

• For use on wood
  
• Include two circular saw blades as well as several chipper blades and shims
  
• Use to cut grooves (dados) in wood to receive another piece of wood, such as for shelves on a bookcase
  
• Different combinations of blades and shims create grooves of different widths
  

Caution

Follow the blade and saw manufacturers' instructions for use and safety.

Which Circular Saw Blade is Right for My Power Saw?

Each type of circular saw blade is designed to cut different material and work with specific power saws. Be certain the blade you choose is suitable for the material you need to cut and that it fits your saw. Your saw manual should provide information on compatible blades, but here are some quick tips.

• Handheld circular saws typically accept blades 4-1/2 inches to 7-1/4 inches in diameter. The teeth are often carbide tipped to stay sharp longer.
• Tile saws most often use 7-inch or 10-inch diamond blades.
• Table saws and compound miter saws use blades 8-1/4 inches or 10 inches in diameter. Like those for handheld saws, the blades are usually carbide tipped. 
• Miter saws are usually designed for 7-1/4-inch, 10-inch or 12-inch blades. These blades are also usually carbide tipped.
• Circular saw blades for metal, such as those for use on metal-cutting chop saws — also called abrasive saws or cut-off saws — are often 14-inch aluminum oxide abrasive blades or carbide-tipped toothed blades.

Check the size of the arbor hole, or the hole in the center of the blade. It must fit the arbor or shaft on your saw. Some blades with a circular arbor hole include a piece you can knock out to allow them to fit saws with a diamond-shaped arbor.

Check the maximum RPM rating of the blade to make sure it’s compatible with the tool you plan to use.

Learn how to choose the best power saw for your projects:

• Table Saw Buying Guide
• Compound Miter Saw Buying Guide
• Garage Tool Storage Buying Guide

How to Change a Circular Saw Blade

The steps for changing a circular saw blade will vary by tool type. You should always refer to your saw manual for specific instructions on changing a blade, but here are some general tips for changing a blade on a handheld circular saw:

1. Unplug the tool or disconnect the battery.
   
2. Engage the blade lock button on the saw.
   
3. Fit the included blade wrench onto the head of the blade stud or arbor. You may need to use the wrench to rotate the blade slightly to let the blade lock fully set.
4. With the blade immobilized, turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen and remove the stud and the outer blade washer.
   
5. Carefully move the lower blade guard out of the way and remove the blade through the slot in the saw foot or base.
   
6. Position the new blade to rotate in the correct direction and slide it up through the slot and onto the blade shaft, against the inner blade washer.
   
7. Make sure the outer washer is in place and install the blade stud. Turn the stud clockwise by hand until it’s finger tight. Lock the blade and use the included wrench to tighten it slightly according to the manufacturer’s instructions (for example, 1/8 turn or to specific guide markings). Don’t overtighten.
   

Caution

Wear heavy-duty work gloves when handling the saw blade. 

When loosening and tightening the blade stud, use only the included wrench. Other wrenches may overtighten the stud.

Sharpening a Circular Saw Blade

If you need to sharpen a circular saw blade, take it to a professional. Sharpening some blades require specialty tools that most do-it-yourselfers don’t have. Attempting to sharpen other types of circular saw blades yourself risks ruining the blades. 

To reduce the need to sharpen your blades, look for carbide-tipped blades. They’re more expensive than other blades, but they stay sharp much longer than steel or high-speed steel blades.

For more information, please visit Electric Circular Saw Manufacturer.

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