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Chuck selection - Sandvik Coromant

26 May.,2025

Chuck selection - Sandvik Coromant

Chucks are used to hold round shank tools. There are many styles of chucks, and chuck selection varies depending on:

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Application: end mill, drill, tap, reamer
Component material and tolerance
Production: high-volume or mixed
Coolant: dry, emulsion, MQL – through tool or external

Chuck comparison

In the table below, you can see a comparison between different styles of chucks, which can help you to make the best chuck selection.

High-precision hydraulic chuckShrink fitPower chuckER collet chuckWeldon Pull-out
security, torque
transmissionVery goodVery goodGoodAcceptableVery good Easy handlingVery goodAcceptableGoodGoodVery good High precisionVery goodVery goodGoodAcceptableAcceptable FlexibilityVery goodGoodVery goodVery goodAcceptable AccessibilityVery goodVery goodAcceptableGoodAcceptable

Cylindrical shank

The cylindrical shank is clamped evenly and is used for the best run-out accuracy for milling, drilling and reaming. With no flat or locking, it has torque and axial force limits before the shank moves in the holder.

Hydraulic chuck

The hydraulic membrane provides high clamping force and run-out accuracy. It is very simple to handle, without the need for separate equipment. Collets can be used, which reduces the number of chucks needed and allows coolant to be delivered through the tool (drilling) or through the collets (milling).

Shrink fit chuck

The bore of the chuck is slightly smaller than the shank diameter; the chuck is heated up to expand when changing the tool. Due to thermal expansion between the holder and the tool shank, shrink fit chucks are mainly used for solid carbide round tools. Heating equipment is needed to change tools and each chuck is for one shank diameter and coolant delivery only. This makes shrink fit best suited for production with a tool-setting room for tool changing.

Shrink fit offers good accessibility and high run-out precision, with medium to high clamping force.

ER Collet chuck (DIN )

The run-out accuracy and clamping force are not as good as with hydraulic or shrink fit chucks. However, the very good flexibility with collets makes the ER collet chuck an economic all-round chuck for drilling and light milling applications. The tool change can be handled at the machine with a fixture. Use a torque wrench to ensure that the chuck is not overtightened, which reduces accuracy and damages the chuck.

Shank with flat

A shank with a flat is used for higher torque applications where torque security is more critical than run-out accuracy.

Drill adapter for shank ISO

The drill adapter is suited for medium to large drilling operations. The flat runs all along the shank, as the drill has only compressive axial forces (pull-out is not a risk), but has an axial face contact with the adapter for best stability. The drill adapter differs from the Weldon adapter, in that the face of the adapter is ground and the shank is longer for best stability.

Weldon adapter for shank DIN -HB

The Weldon or “milling” adapter was the traditional chuck used for milling applications. The short flats provide torque resistance and pull-out security. However, the downside with Weldon is the run-out accuracy, which is an important factor for milling tool performance. More often, this type of chuck is replaced with shrink fit or hydraulic.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit power chuck.

Modular screw coupling

The modular screw coupling interface provides many benefits for milling and boring. For smaller machines, removing the need for a chuck allows for shorter gauge lengths, which dramatically reduces vibration. For long overhangs, the shank material and shape can be optimized more easily compared to solid tools.

For milling, longer solid carbide tools are costly; when only the end is used, tool costs can be significantly reduced.

Machine interface adapters

Used mainly for small and medium machine spindles (HSK40/50/63 – steep taper #30, 40 – C3/C4/C5/C6). All other chucks build length into the assembly. Reduce the gauge length to below three times the flange contact to reduce vibration and increase productivity.

Cylindrical – steel/solid carbide

The shank length is selected that provides the best stick-out length from the chuck. Steel is used up to 3 x D and solid carbide up to 8 x D.

Conical – steel/solid carbide

The conical shape has a big impact on stability. Conical should always be used where clearance allows and for 5-axis machining. Replacing conical solid carbide end mills has a big impact on tooling costs. Conical shanks exist in cylindrical shanks as well as Coromant Capto® for steel.

G undersized shanks – heavy metal

Over three times the shank diameter, vibration is always an issue. Optimizing the stick-out length to the absolute minimum required makes a difference. The G undersized shanks are 0.3 mm (0.012 inch) smaller than the cutting diameter and used in combination with dedicated collets for hydraulic chucks, the shank length can easily be modified. Their application area is from 3-6 times the shank diameter.

Cylindrical shank with square drive for tapping

The tap adapters are designed for tapping operations in machines equipped with automatic tool change. A construction for pull and pressure compensates for differences between spindle feed and thread pitch. Even micro differences between calculated feed and actual pitch of the tap can lead to extremely high thrust forces on the tap flanges and an increase in cutting pressure. When threading with a tap with a cylindrical square shank, it is important to use a tap adapter of the same size as the shank/square.

Synchronized tapping chucks

Synchronized tapping chucks, such as CoroChuck® 970, are based on a micro compensator, which aligns radial and axial deviations. Thrust forces are reduced on the tap flanks, which results in better surface quality and longer tool life. Synchronized tapping chucks use ER collets with a square drive. It is not recommended to use a collet without the square drive, due to the high torque that will make the tap rotate in the collet if the square drive is not used.

Quick change

For quick change tap adapters, it is also important to use the right-sized tap adapter; otherwise, the risk of tap breakage is high and tolerance on the finished thread is poor.

To get the best result from machines that are not equipped for synchronized tapping, the following recommendations should be observed:

Contact us to discuss your requirements of rotating hydraulic cylinder. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Program machine feed 10% lower than theoretical value (thread pitch rpm). This enables the tap to cut precisely on-pitch
Reduce tapping depth by 10% to avoid tap breakage
When tapping deep holes in soft materials, e.g. aluminum, feed and depth should be reduced by 3-5%

Chuck selection/recommendations

ChuckFirst choiceSecond choice Indexable insert drillDrill adapter Exchangeable-tip drillHigh-precision hydraulic chuck
(use only with collet)
Drill adapter Solid carbide drillHigh-precision hydraulic chuck
Shrink fitER collet chuck ReamersHigh-precision hydraulic chuck
Shrink fitER collet chuck TapsSynchronized tapping chuckER collet chuck
Quick change Indexable insert end millHigh-precision hydraulic chuckWeldon adapter Exchangeable head end millHigh-precision hydraulic chuck
(large machine tools and long overhangs)Exchangeable head adapter
(small and medium machine tools and short overhangs) Solid carbide end millHigh-precision hydraulic chuck
Shrink fitER collet chuck

Buying first chuck | American Association of Woodturners

Joined: Mar 23,

Messages: 2

Likes: 0

Location: Hartselle , Al

Nov 23,

My apologies if this question is like beating a dead horse for some of you. I've been turning with glue blocks a little bit and wanted to "graduate" to a chuck. What system would be best for a beginner? Thank you in advance for any help on thism

hockenbery

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Joined: Apr 27,

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Location: Lakeland, Florida

Website: www.hockenberywoodturning.com

Nov 23,

Lots to choose from. Any sold by a reputable dealer like craft supplies, pakard, woodcraft, rockler, highland hardware....... will work well.

I like the ONEWAY stronghold and the vicmark 120.

Both will do everything. I prefer the stronghold for spindle and endgrain work.
I prefer the vicmark for bowls and likes it’s hex ket above th3 to other key used by the stronghold.

most important is making a propers tenon for the jaws you are using.

Joined: Jul 26,

Messages: 2,326

Likes: 1,112

Location: Nebraska

Nov 23,

Start with the basics, what is the thread pitch size on your lathe spindle? (Some chucks have mounting threads cut in the body, some use threaded adapters for different size thread pitches)
What is the size of the lathe turning capacity you have and horsepower? (Most chucks have different sets of jaws to hold different sizes and shapes of wood billets)
What kind and size of items do you want to hold in the chuck? (Spindle pieces, bowls and hollow forms) (Small or Large Diameter) (Long or Short)
Most wood turners end up with a collection of chucks that they use for various projects with different types of jaws already installed so they can quickly install and use when needed.
Some manufacturers offer their chucks in a package with multiple sets of jaws for holding different types and sizes of projects, you save a few dollars this way.

Joined: Oct 25,

Messages: 840

Likes: 745

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Nov 24,

Hi Larry, I'll approach this from lathe size and motor power, for it really is not a matter of beginner vs. experienced.

Regardless of chuck brand, if you are using a smaller lathe (let's say 12" swing or less) with a motor of one hp or less, I'd suggest a smaller chuck, examples of which are the Oneway Talon and Vicmarc VM100. These chucks weigh in the 4 pound neighborhood, are excellent in design and construction, are a bit more affordable due to their size, offer accessory jaws, and the lighter weight won't tax the limited motor power. I bought the first production run Talon directly from Oneway around /98 before they were even released to the market after they explained it was a chuck designed specifically for this size family of lathes. And if the Vicmarc VM100 is on par with their larger VM120 which I own, it, too, would be a great chuck to consider.

If you own a lathe with a larger than 12" swing, and with a motor greater than one hp, then the Oneway Stronghold or Vicmarc VM120 are at the top of the list for me. These are chucks in the 8+ pound category, strong enough to crush wood fibers with their grip, have a large range of accessory jaws, and will confidently hold whatever you want to turn that will fit on a lathe up to a 24" swing. The quality of these two brands is without a fault. The big difference is the style of how their jaws hold wood, serrated jaws (Oneway) vs. dovetail jaws (Vicmarc). I've owned both brands for 2 decades, and in the final analysis, to me it is six of one and a half dozen of the other. Use the chuck as the manufacturer intended and all is good.

Yes, there are other brands, but I have no experience with them, but they should be considered as well.

Steve.

Joined: May 4,

Messages: 2,800

Likes: 2,273

Location: Bozeman, MT

Nov 24,

Larry, I don't care what chuck you buy, but I'd appreciate it if you don't post a picture with sunshine and warm aqua water in it until winter is over up here. That'll be right after July 4.

And welcome to the madness.

Bill Boehme

Administrator

Joined: Jan 27,

Messages: 13,115

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Location: Dalworthington Gardens, TX

Website: pbase.com

Nov 25,

Hi Larry, I'll approach this from lathe size and motor power, for it really is not a matter of beginner vs. experienced.

Regardless of chuck brand, if you are using a smaller lathe (let's say 12" swing or less) with a motor of one hp or less, I'd suggest a smaller chuck, examples of which are the Oneway Talon and Vicmarc VM100. These chucks weigh in the 4 pound neighborhood, are excellent in design and construction, are a bit more affordable due to their size, offer accessory jaws, and the lighter weight won't tax the limited motor power. I bought the first production run Talon directly from Oneway around /98 before they were even released to the market after they explained it was a chuck designed specifically for this size family of lathes. And if the Vicmarc VM100 is on par with their larger VM120 which I own, it, too, would be a great chuck to consider.

If you own a lathe with a larger than 12" swing, and with a motor greater than one hp, then the Oneway Stronghold or Vicmarc VM120 are at the top of the list for me. These are chucks in the 8+ pound category, strong enough to crush wood fibers with their grip, have a large range of accessory jaws, and will confidently hold whatever you want to turn that will fit on a lathe up to a 24" swing. The quality of these two brands is without a fault. The big difference is the style of how their jaws hold wood, serrated jaws (Oneway) vs. dovetail jaws (Vicmarc). I've owned both brands for 2 decades, and in the final analysis, to me it is six of one and a half dozen of the other. Use the chuck as the manufacturer intended and all is good.

Yes, there are other brands, but I have no experience with them, but they should be considered as well.

Steve.

While I generally agree with your recommendations of what size chuck can be used on what size lathe, I would like to offer a caveat ... on larger lathes match the chuck size to the size of the chunk of wood rather than the swing of the lathe. My Robust American Beauty has a swing of 25½", but the vast majority of the time I turn pieces that are smaller than 16" diameter (usually smaller than 12" diameter) and for those pieces, I prefer using my smaller chucks (Oneway Talon or Vicmarc VM100). It's easier to work close to the tenon when using a smaller chuck and the smaller chucks hold just as well as the larger chucks.

Joined: Oct 25,

Messages: 840

Likes: 745

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Nov 25,

Good point, Bill, and I agree. I, too, will grab the smaller chuck for smaller work for those reasons.

Larry never did tell us the details of his lathe that he wanted his first chuck for, and I'd guess he'll only be buying one... for now.

Steve.

hockenbery

Forum MVP

Joined: Apr 27,

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Location: Lakeland, Florida

Website: www.hockenberywoodturning.com

Nov 25,

It's easier to work close to the tenon when using a smaller chuck and the smaller chucks hold just as well as the larger chucks.

That is a good point and generally good advice.

I my opinion, the small chucks don’t hold as well as the big ones but they hold bowls and such more than well enough.

I have to confess to doing the opposite sometimes using my vicmark 120 when I demo bowls on small lathes. I do it so the extra weight will compensate a little for the light lathe and let me get a higher rpm.

Bill Boehme

Administrator

Joined: Jan 27,

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Location: Dalworthington Gardens, TX

Website: pbase.com

Nov 25,

I have to confess to doing the opposite sometimes using my vicmark 120 when I demo bowls on small lathes. I do it so the extra weight will compensate a little for the light lathe and let me get a higher rpm.

Good point. I have done something somewhat similar. I have a ten-inch diameter Oneway cast iron faceplate that I have used with some turning blanks that were heavy on one side. The faceplate weighs 12 pounds 6 ounces and sure does a great job of smoothing out vibrations.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!

Joined: Dec 22,

Messages: 7,391

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Location: Missoula, MT

Nov 26,

Good point. I have done something somewhat similar. I have a ten-inch diameter Oneway cast iron faceplate that I have used with some turning blanks that were heavy on one side. The faceplate weighs 12 pounds 6 ounces and sure does a great job of smoothing out vibrations.

This is an interesting thought.

So.........

Since RPM is directly related to vibration level, and each individual lathe has it's own threshold.....I wonder if adding well distributed weight can further reduce the vibration level.....?

I also wonder if that well distributed added weight would have a similar effect when it's added to the outboard side of the spindle when turning on the inboard side of the spindle.....?

Very interesting contemplation, indeed!

-----odie-----

Bill Boehme

Administrator

Joined: Jan 27,

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Location: Dalworthington Gardens, TX

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Nov 26,

Odie, basically the big faceplate is just a flywheel so it wouldn't matter if it were installed inboard or outboard. If your lathe has a VFD there's a limit to how much mass you can add to a flywheel and still have stability at minimum RPM (50 to 100 RPM range).

hockenbery

Forum MVP

Joined: Apr 27,

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Location: Lakeland, Florida

Website: www.hockenberywoodturning.com

Nov 26,

I wonder if adding well distributed weight can further reduce the vibration level.....?

Both Kelton and Vicmarc make a faceplate/Chucks whose purpose is to “Add well distributed weight”

balancing the weight of turned objects reduces vibration. By using a heavy faceplate or Chuck you add balanced weight that then reduces the % of off balanced weight. In wood, a non-homigenious, medium the weight is never 100% evenly distributed within the blanks. Obviously first mounted un turned blanks have uneven weight because of the off center parts.

There are a couple of chucks/faceplates in the market place designed for off set turning.
They work using movable weights that can moved to counterbalance the weight if pieces intentionally moved off center. They reduce the vibration a great deal.

https://www.kelton.co.nz/Kelton Eccentric Faceplate.html

https://vicmarc.com/index.php?optio...mart_product_id=100&virtuemart_category_id=14

Joined: Jun 29,

Messages: 799

Likes: 564

Location: Jasper, Alabama

Nov 26,

Hello Larry and welcome to the forum. My first chuck was a Nova and it has served me well......... I still use it often. All the information above is excellent advice from some of the best turners around the country. Happy turning!

Joined: Nov 17,

Messages: 10

Likes: 20

Location: Lakewood, CO

Nov 26,

I have Oneway stronghold and Nova chucks. Both are fine, but I prefer the Oneway cole jaws to those of the Nova (easier to set up and level), in case you want to expand in the future. Some folk don't like the ridges on the Oneway tenon grips, but a little painters tape negates imprinting wood. It is good to check the min-max range of mortises and tenons for the various chucks, in the event you turn very large or smaller things.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!

Joined: Dec 22,

Messages: 7,391

Likes: 12,287

Location: Missoula, MT

Nov 26,

Both Kelton and Vicmarc make a faceplate/Chucks whose purpose is to “Add well distributed weight”

balancing the weight of turned objects reduces vibration. By using a heavy faceplate or Chuck you add balanced weight that then reduces the % of off balanced weight. In wood, a non-homigenious, medium the weight is never 100% evenly distributed within the blanks. Obviously first mounted un turned blanks have uneven weight because of the off center parts.

There are a couple of chucks/faceplates in the market place designed for off set turning.
They work using movable weights that can moved to counterbalance the weight if pieces intentionally moved off center. They reduce the vibration a great deal.

https://www.kelton.co.nz/Kelton Eccentric Faceplate.html

https://vicmarc.com/index.php?optio...mart_product_id=100&virtuemart_category_id=14

Interesting Al......

Yes, I am aware of eccentric chucks.

I'm not sure if either you or Bill are tuning in to the exact concept I was thinking, and maybe it's me who failed to describe it succinctly. I was not thinking of the ability to mount a turning independent from the spindle axis, or a flywheel to resist changes in rotational energy....but to reduce the tendency of an out-of-balance turning to effect the contact of the turning tool edge, as a result of vibrations at any particular RPM. Maybe it's a complete screwball idea, however I'm considering possible experiments to ascertain some conclusive results.

-----odie-----

Timothy Allen

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Joined: Sep 11,

Messages: 212

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Location: Maine

Nov 26,

Odie, what we need is a faceplate designed to accept balancing weights, much like the wheel weights added to rims when balancing one's tires!

hockenbery

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Joined: Apr 27,

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Location: Lakeland, Florida

Website: www.hockenberywoodturning.com

Nov 26,

was not thinking of the ability to mount a turning independent from the spindle axis, or a flywheel to resist changes in rotational energy....but to reduce the tendency of an out-of-balance turning to effect the contact of the turning tool edge,

I think that is what Bill and I said to start this tangent. A heavy in balance faceplate adds in balance weight to the turning. It doesn’t change the wood but does reduce the wood’s out of balance weight contribution to vibration.

what we need is a faceplate designed to accept balancing weights, much like the wheel weights added to rims when balancing one's tires!

That is what the Vicmark and McNaughton chucks do. The McNaughton movable weights le you “spin balance” the work.

I learned a do it yourself version in a Christian Burchard class - mount the work on a plywood disc the screw faceplates and pieces of iron to the back of the disc to balance it.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!

Joined: Dec 22,

Messages: 7,391

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Location: Missoula, MT

Nov 26,

Odie, what we need is a faceplate designed to accept balancing weights, much like the wheel weights added to rims when balancing one's tires!

Yep, Timothy......that would do it!

Likewise, some way to determine where to put those weights.....like those machines that do that for tires.

===========================

What I've found, is each block of wood has a best RPM. At this RPM is where the least detectable vibrations are. This is a harmonic vibration, and the lathe itself is a part of that determination. (In theory, if I put that block of wood on a different lathe, the best RPM will not be exactly the same.)

Wood blocks that are close to being in balance from the gitgo, usually stay close to the same best RPM as wood is removed. Wood blocks that are very noticeably out of balance, the best RPM often varies more, as wood is removed.

-----odie-----

Joined: Mar 23,

Messages: 2

Likes: 0

Location: Hartselle , Al

Nov 26,

Thank you gentlemen. A good bit of great options here. Here's a little bit more info on my end. I have an old Craftsman 113 model that belonged to my grandfather. Iv completly broke it down and rebuilt it. Second lathe is an older Central Machinery I was gifted this year.

Tom Gall

Joined: Feb 20,

Messages: 1,211

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Location: Hillsborough, NJ

Nov 26,

Odie, what we need is a faceplate designed to accept balancing weights, much like the wheel weights added to rims when balancing one's tires!

I have an off-center vacuum chuck. The base disc (MDF in this case) is attached to a steel faceplate (8"?) that has a slightly raised edge on the back side. I used rare earth magnets in cups which are moveable and positioned against or near that edge....act just like wheel weights. The centrifugal force doesn't have any effect on their placement while resting against that edge. It's the one on the left.

Bill Boehme

Administrator

Joined: Jan 27,

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Location: Dalworthington Gardens, TX

Website: pbase.com

Nov 26,

Likewise, some way to determine where to put those weights.....like those machines that do that for tires.

That's easy because static balancing works well enough. Just loosen the drive belt so that it doesn't touch the spindle pulley. Next, give the spindle a spin by hand and let it coast to a stop. Mark the low point with a pencil or Sharpie or your favorite marker. Repeat the spin test several times to verify that it stops spinning close to the same spot. Once you have confirmed the heaviest side, add some weight 180° from the pencil marks. Then repeat the spin test to see if the added weight was not enough, just right, or too much. Generally, this takes three iterations or less. In lieu of adding weights, you can shift the piece of wood ... at least in the initial roughing stage.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!

Joined: Dec 22,

Messages: 7,391

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Location: Missoula, MT

Nov 27,

Generally, this takes three iterations or less. In lieu of adding weights, you can shift the piece of wood ... at least in the initial roughing stage.

Hi Bill.....

Yes, I can agree that this method of shifting weight, trial and evaluate, would be satisfactory for the initial roughing stage. Would you not agree that a more precise method would be better for the final turning?

-----odie-----

Bill Boehme

Administrator

Joined: Jan 27,

Messages: 13,115

Likes: 5,597

Location: Dalworthington Gardens, TX

Website: pbase.com

Nov 27,

In an earlier post you suggested:

Since RPM is directly related to vibration level, and each individual lathe has it's own threshold.....I wonder if adding well distributed weight can further reduce the vibration level.....?

While it might seem counter-intuitive, just the opposite is the case ... vibration amplitude is inversely proportional to RPM. As an example, suppose that we put a very unbalanced piece of wood on a lightweight lathe and, for now, assume that there aren't any structural resonances. At very low RPM we would see the lathe rocking from side to side. Being brave (or foolhardy) we increase the speed and while the lathe is still shaking, the rocking ha diminished. Being encouraged by this, we increase the speed further. We can feel the vibration when we touch the tool rest, but we can't actually see the vibration. If we increase the speed even further we find that we can get decent interrupted cuts. At this point, we can still feel some vibration and possibly begin to hear the vibration. Even though the amplitude of the vibrations is inversely proportional to the RPM, the kinetic energy of the vibrations is increasing with increasing RPM ... not just proportionally, but with the square of the RPM's ... in other words, if we double the speed the kinetic energy increases by a factor of four. This kinetic energy is bound to excite any structural resonances of both the wood and the lathe which can make it difficult to get a fine detail finish. This information is a convincing argument for going after the root of the problem by balancing the load either by shifting the wood or using weights.

Tom Gall

Joined: Feb 20,

Messages: 1,211

Likes: 2,421

Location: Hillsborough, NJ

Nov 27,

That's easy because static balancing works well enough. Just loosen the drive belt so that it doesn't touch the spindle pulley. Next, give the spindle a spin by hand and let it coast to a stop. Mark the low point with a pencil or Sharpie or your favorite marker. Repeat the spin test several times to verify that it stops spinning close to the same spot. Once you have confirmed the heaviest side, add some weight 180° from the pencil marks. Then repeat the spin test to see if the added weight was not enough, just right, or too much. Generally, this takes three iterations or less. In lieu of adding weights, you can shift the piece of wood ... at least in the initial roughing stage.

This is the method I used for placing the magnets in the above post. Also for other off-center turnings when adding weights.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!

Joined: Dec 22,

Messages: 7,391

Likes: 12,287

Location: Missoula, MT

Nov 27,

In an earlier post you suggested:

While it might seem counter-intuitive, just the opposite is the case ... vibration amplitude is inversely proportional to RPM. As an example, suppose that we put a very unbalanced piece of wood on a lightweight lathe and, for now, assume that there aren't any structural resonances. At very low RPM we would see the lathe rocking from side to side. Being brave (or foolhardy) we increase the speed and while the lathe is still shaking, the rocking ha diminished. Being encouraged by this, we increase the speed further. We can feel the vibration when we touch the tool rest, but we can't actually see the vibration. If we increase the speed even further we find that we can get decent interrupted cuts. At this point, we can still feel some vibration and possibly begin to hear the vibration. Even though the amplitude of the vibrations is inversely proportional to the RPM, the kinetic energy of the vibrations is increasing with increasing RPM ... not just proportionally, but with the square of the RPM's ... in other words, if we double the speed the kinetic energy increases by a factor of four. This kinetic energy is bound to excite any structural resonances of both the wood and the lathe which can make it difficult to get a fine detail finish. This information is a convincing argument for going after the root of the problem by balancing the load either by shifting the wood or using weights.

Hello Bill.....

While this may be true for large out of balance situations, small out of balance conditions are different, when observed from practical application. I used to use my fingers on the bedways to tune the rpm to the least detectable vibrations. Now that I've been using my vibrometer, I can further fine tune the rpm. If everything else is good.....sharpness, tool choice, presentation, etc., this is where the finest cut is possible. If I increase the rpm from that point, the vibrations become more pronounced again. This might be due to a "harmonic" interaction between the lathe and the mounted workpiece. (Harmonic interaction between workpiece and the lathe is my best guess as to the cause, and I can't state it as fact. I only know what the laser beam shows me.)

-----odie----- Last edited: Nov 27,

Joined: Sep 9,

Messages: 299

Likes: 209

Location: McKinney,Texas

Nov 27,

I thought the question was which chuck to buy!
Nova just came out with a new line of chucks so, the G3 and supernova 2 (insert chucks) will probably be going on sale. Google nova chuck and see all the possibilities. Are they the best? Maybe Maybe not but they are good enough.
How the weight of a chuck effects the Space Time Continuum when dealing with an off center unbalanced Chungking of wood, is a mystery to me.

Joined: Nov 4,

Messages: 541

Likes: 807

Location: Bay Settlement, WI

Nov 27,

Nova just came out with a new line of chucks so, the G3 and supernova 2 (insert chucks) will probably be going on sale.

Bought a SuperNova2 online (from Rockler) for $119.00 ... Black Friday deal.

Joined: Dec 25,

Messages: 74

Likes: 31

Location: Glen Spey, New York

Nov 28,

Both Kelton and Vicmarc make a faceplate/Chucks whose purpose is to “Add well distributed weight”

balancing the weight of turned objects reduces vibration. By using a heavy faceplate or Chuck you add balanced weight that then reduces the % of off balanced weight. In wood, a non-homigenious, medium the weight is never 100% evenly distributed within the blanks. Obviously first mounted un turned blanks have uneven weight because of the off center parts.

There are a couple of chucks/faceplates in the market place designed for off set turning.
They work using movable weights that can moved to counterbalance the weight if pieces intentionally moved off center. They reduce the vibration a great deal.

https://www.kelton.co.nz/Kelton Eccentric Faceplate.html

https://vicmarc.com/index.php?optio...mart_product_id=100&virtuemart_category_id=14

By doing this wouldn't it require you to re-balance/move your weights frequently as you cut away the unbalanced portion of the wood stock .
I'm thinking maybe someone should design a chuck with a self balancing type of mechanism to it such like balancing beads that are often used in tractor trailer truck tires....Vicmarc you're free to use my idea(well I want one free of charge)

Joined: Nov 4,

Messages: 858

Likes: 960

Location: Penrose, NC

Nov 28,

I have a mix of Vicmarc and Novas. I find them both to be good. I do not like chucks that have "geared" chuck key. And I dont feel confidence in the open back chucks. Maybe just my ignorance about chucks.

Bill Boehme

Administrator

Joined: Jan 27,

Messages: 13,115

Likes: 5,597

Location: Dalworthington Gardens, TX

Website: pbase.com

Nov 28,

By doing this wouldn't it require you to re-balance/move your weights frequently as you cut away the unbalanced portion of the wood stock ....

It depends. If it's something like a soup ladle or a one piece hand mirror then it may not be necessary to adjust the weights. And a heavy chuck or faceplate could also be useful in swamping out the relatively small change in weight distribution of the wood.On something like a bowl or platter, you could probably do away with the weights once you're half way through the initial rough shaping. I don't bother with weights when doing bowls and platters. Instead, I just center the wood to get it in balance. Once you do that, the piece will be balanced all the way to completion.

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!

Joined: Dec 22,

Messages: 7,391

Likes: 12,287

Location: Missoula, MT

Nov 29,

It depends. If i's something like a soup ladle or a one piece hand mirror then it may not be necessary to adjust the weights. And a heavy chuck or faceplate could also be useful in swamping out the relatively small change in weight distribution of the wood.On something like a bowl or platter, you could probably do away with the weights once you're half way through the initial rough shaping. I don't bother with weights when doing bowls and platters. Instead, I just center the wood to get it in balance. Once you do that, the piece will be balanced all the way to completion.

This is pretty much my findings, as well. Often times, when a bowl/platter is as balanced as much as possible, there is no significant change in the vibration intensity, all the way to completion. This doesn't mean it doesn't happen, but more infrequently than most people would think. RPM is also a component of that vibration intensity, but weight distribution on a significantly out of balanced chunk of wood is the more contributing factor. On a bowl with minor weight distribution considerations, then it's RPM that takes over as being the component more available to changing conditions for the best cut possible.

What is the more important factor in the vibrations caused by an out of balance, or RPM related condition? It's more than just the lathe shaking and stress on bearings. It's also a contributing factor as to just how cleanly a cut your tool can make, especially on very fine light finishing cuts. This isn't the only, or most important consideration, because there are many other factors that can effect the ability to make that very fine light finishing cut. Most notably, there are things that are completely under the control of the turner...mainly, sharpness, tool selection, presentation, rpm, etc. One important factor is the physical characteristics of the particular piece of wood being turned will heavily influence the ability to make a very fine finishing cut, as well. Species is a huge factor, as well as the grain patterning, and general hardness of the wood.

-----odie-----

Joined: Jan 3,

Messages: 463

Likes: 388

Location: New City, NY

Nov 29,

@Larry Long
I have bought many chucks over years. Primarily because a particular jaw set requirement that evolved from varied turning interests. It’s difficult to predict what type and size projects your will be turning in the future. I think choosing a chuck manufacturer and model that has an extensive chuck jaw line is a good investment. Another chuck purchasing feature you may consider if you ever anticipate changing lathes, is buying a chuck with interchangeable spindle adapters vs fixed thread.

Joined: Nov 22,

Messages: 258

Likes: 203

Location: Midland, MI

Dec 8,

@Larry Long
I have several Nova SuperNova2 (SN2) chucks that have worked well for me. Nova sells a 30th anniversary bundle that includes the SN2 with standard 2" jaws and also 4" and 5" jaws. It's direct threaded, so only suitable for lathes with 1 1/4" x 8 tpi spindles. Occasionally CPO Outlets or Amazon sells the bundle for about $170 which makes it a great deal if it fits your lathe and if you need the extra jaws.

Woodcraft is selling a Record Power SC4 chuck package with 2" jaw and 3" faceplate (gripped by chuck jaws, not separately threaded) for $119, $80 savings. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...crew-and-2-faceplate-package-?sku= It requires separate purchase of an insert/adaptor to fit your lathe (another $20). I've never tried one, but have read several positive reviews. I did save $139 this morning by deciding not to buy the one I had in my cart.... Last edited: Dec 8,

Joined: Jan 31,

Messages: 181

Likes: 133

Location: Hoschton, GA

Dec 8,

The $119 deal on the Record Power SC4 is a super deal. I've never seen this kit on sale before. I paid $199 for mine last year. It's a great chuck and I ordered another one today at the sale price. All of the Nova jaws also fit this chuck. The Record Power also closes up by turning the allen wrench clockwise.

The only complaint I have with this chuck is that it comes in a very nice plastic case. However, once you put the jaws on the chuck, the lid on the case won't close.

Joined: Feb 26,

Messages: 2,088

Likes: 1,659

Location: Lebanon, Missouri

Dec 9,

>Size chucks to the work, not the lathe. A given lathe will limit the work size (mainly diameter) which will guide max chuck size. Small work, like 3” ornaments and smaller, are just easier with a small chuck
>dovetail or serrated jaws, I prefer serrated because they do mark the tenon and are easier to rechuck a piece. Favorite is Oneway profiled jaws.
> insert style instead of direct thread. Lathe upgrades wont require chuck purchases
> lots of jaw type/styles/sizes available. Never know when the itch strikes that requires jaws you dont have. I made do quite nicely with the PSI Barracuda set with 4 jaws for many years but 1) I dont think that kit is available and 2) dont recommend it the chuck key gear drive is at a shallow angle, pushing the key out of the ring gear
> recommendations - Oneway, Nova, Craft Supplies Apprentice, Record (copy of Nova), Vicmark if you want dovetail

I like an open back. I degrease chucks and jaws, cover with rust inhibitor, then slather paster wax on all surfaces that move. Blast of air blows out what little dust collects. Geared keys like Oneway and Nova work great. Just looke at the gear angle and that tells you good from bad. The hex drive are great as well, just dont dismiss a great chuck like a Oneway because its geared vs hex.

Joined: Nov 30,

Messages: 50

Likes: 267

Location: Clermont, Georgia

Dec 9,

What about adapters? Should Larry by chucks that match the arbor/thread size? Does an adapter add to the vibration possibilities? I've been thinking of replacing my chucks with the matching thread n size and eliminating the adapters....

Emiliano Achaval

Administrator

Joined: Dec 14,

Messages: 3,351

Likes: 4,481

Location: Maui, Hawaii

Website: hawaiiankoaturner.com

Dec 10,

Both Kelton and Vicmarc make a faceplate/Chucks whose purpose is to “Add well distributed weight”

balancing the weight of turned objects reduces vibration. By using a heavy faceplate or Chuck you add balanced weight that then reduces the % of off balanced weight. In wood, a non-homigenious, medium the weight is never 100% evenly distributed within the blanks. Obviously first mounted un turned blanks have uneven weight because of the off center parts.

There are a couple of chucks/faceplates in the market place designed for off set turning.
They work using movable weights that can moved to counterbalance the weight if pieces intentionally moved off center. They reduce the vibration a great deal.

https://www.kelton.co.nz/Kelton Eccentric Faceplate.html

https://vicmarc.com/index.php?optio...mart_product_id=100&virtuemart_category_id=14

I have the Vicmarc and also the Vermec chucks for offset turning. And, I just ordered the biggest chuck out there, a VM150.

Joined: Jan 31,

Messages: 181

Likes: 133

Location: Hoschton, GA

Dec 10,

I prefer chucks that have the thread adapter. Most of the top brands use the inserts and I have not found them to be a problem. The insert allows for future flexibility if you upgrade or down size your lathe in the future, you only have to buy new inserts, not new chucks.

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