Avoid using any Chinese bearings,they are of notoriously poor quality,seals no better. Go to your local dealer that sells bearings and seals. Give him an old seal and measure the crank diameter,seal hole size in crankcase and width of the seal. Then be sure to specify a double-lip seal or you will likely get a single lip seal. As for the bearings there will be a number on them(And in the parts book)such as , etc, Then specify for the the bearings that they come with the teflon(Or plastic) cage,this is crucial!!! Especially for Huskys and Jonsereds which were still fitted from factory with metal cage bearings,and these type have a much higher failure rate. The bearings with teflon cages can tolerate higher revs,and do NOT destroy the piston and cylinder in a cage failure,in fact I haven't seen any blow... Then make sure the bearings are a good known brand. Buying your bearings and seals this way is cheaper too!
Avoid using any Chinese bearings,they are of notoriously poor quality,seals no better. Go to your local dealer that sells bearings and seals. Give him an old seal and measure the crank diameter,seal hole size in crankcase and width of the seal. Then be sure to specify a double-lip seal or you will likely get a single lip seal. As for the bearings there will be a number on them(And in the parts book)such as , etc, Then specify for the the bearings that they come with the teflon(Or plastic) cage,this is crucial!!! Especially for Huskys and Jonsereds which were still fitted from factory with metal cage bearings,and these type have a much higher failure rate. The bearings with teflon cages can tolerate higher revs,and do NOT destroy the piston and cylinder in a cage failure,in fact I haven't seen any blow... Then make sure the bearings are a good known brand. Buying your bearings and seals this way is cheaper too!
Yea I understand this is the way to go I agree. Was just trying to get input from people that have personally tried the Chinese seals or bearings. I know of 1 guy that has used chinese seals in several saws. He says he has had no issues as long as care is taken during installation. I'm not condoning the use of Chinese parts by any means, I'm just curious
I would NEVER put them in a saw! I encountered them in various machines and they were always destroyed.Risk your saw to save only a few dollars?
Why wouldn't a person just buy his bearings from your local bearings dealer,far less cost than original bearings and the same thing.
Also if your old bearings had a metal cage you can order bearings with the "teflon" cages,They can handle more revs and last longer. Also when a main bearing fails in a saw you will see the metal bearing cage all bent and piled up and usually it's pieces of the cage that get pumped up into the cylinder and cause piston/cylinder damage.It's the cage that causes most bearing failures.
Also another real secret about bearings- They are all also rated C1,C2,or C3,that refers to the clearance of the ball bearings,how "tight" the bearings are. Stihl told me that they use a tighter bearing than Husky/Jonsered does.
It used to show in the parts books for husky and Stihl, for the bearing you would see a C2 or C3 number.I don't know if the parts pages for them now do that.. It would be good to investigate that because if Stihl was using a tighter bearing I would be using that style in other saws too. When you get a new bearing it has the C number on the box and the bearing too I think. It's been many years now but i think Stihls used a C2 bearing and Huskys C3. C1 would be too tight for high speed and high heat apllications.
I do know that I saw far less bearing failures in Stihls than Huskies,only a few over very many years...
In fact the best bearing set-ups,have no cage a all! Mercury marine engines use all needle bearings on the crank,and the big end and piston pin end of the con rod. No cages. But what a job to assemble,on a 4 cylinder motors I rebuilt there something like 600 needle bearing total to install!(All glued in place with grease and your hands can't tremble or you spill the needles all over) In most applications(Not main bearing-ball bearing assemblies we use on saws) the cage is there simlply for ease of installation.Without the cage you can fit almost twice as many needles,rollers,or balls into the application and this increases the load carrying ability accordingly. They even sell ball bearing assemblies with no cage,all balls inside. But I've checked and they don't make those bearings quite as small as the or bearings most commonly used in saws. But I have built some competition saws with full needle bearings and no cages,they will never fail...
In fact the best bearing set-ups,have no cage a all! Mercury marine engines use all needle bearings on the crank,and the big end and piston pin end of the con rod. No cages. But what a job to assemble,on a 4 cylinder motors I rebuilt there something like 600 needle bearing total to install!(All glued in place with grease and your hands can't tremble or you spill the needles all over) In most applications(Not main bearing-ball bearing assemblies we use on saws) the cage is there simlply for ease of installation.Without the cage you can fit almost twice as many needles,rollers,or balls into the application and this increases the load carrying ability accordingly. They even sell ball bearing assemblies with no cage,all balls inside. But I've checked and they don't make those bearings quite as small as the or bearings most commonly used in saws. But I have built some competition saws with full needle bearings and no cages,they will never fail...
I still have a pile of old merc stuff.. Love the old ones.. Have a mk58a on a short lower unit waiting for the right application.
I would NEVER put them in a saw! I encountered them in various machines and they were always destroyed.Risk your saw to save only a few dollars?
Why wouldn't a person just buy his bearings from your local bearings dealer,far less cost than original bearings and the same thing.
Also if your old bearings had a metal cage you can order bearings with the "teflon" cages,They can handle more revs and last longer. Also when a main bearing fails in a saw you will see the metal bearing cage all bent and piled up and usually it's pieces of the cage that get pumped up into the cylinder and cause piston/cylinder damage.It's the cage that causes most bearing failures.
Also another real secret about bearings- They are all also rated C1,C2,or C3,that refers to the clearance of the ball bearings,how "tight" the bearings are. Stihl told me that they use a tighter bearing than Husky/Jonsered does.
It used to show in the parts books for husky and Stihl, for the bearing you would see a C2 or C3 number.I don't know if the parts pages for them now do that.. It would be good to investigate that because if Stihl was using a tighter bearing I would be using that style in other saws too. When you get a new bearing it has the C number on the box and the bearing too I think. It's been many years now but i think Stihls used a C2 bearing and Huskys C3. C1 would be too tight for high speed and high heat apllications.
I do know that I saw far less bearing failures in Stihls than Huskies,only a few over very many years...
In fact the best bearing set-ups,have no cage a all! Mercury marine engines use all needle bearings on the crank,and the big end and piston pin end of the con rod. No cages. But what a job to assemble,on a 4 cylinder motors I rebuilt there something like 600 needle bearing total to install!(All glued in place with grease and your hands can't tremble or you spill the needles all over) In most applications(Not main bearing-ball bearing assemblies we use on saws) the cage is there simlply for ease of installation.Without the cage you can fit almost twice as many needles,rollers,or balls into the application and this increases the load carrying ability accordingly. They even sell ball bearing assemblies with no cage,all balls inside. But I've checked and they don't make those bearings quite as small as the or bearings most commonly used in saws. But I have built some competition saws with full needle bearings and no cages,they will never fail...
Like I said, I was curious. Never said I was buying them lmao.. just curious of people's encounters with Chinese bearings. I must note I have seen my fair share of factory stihl and husqvarna bearing that have failed as well.
Tough call here. I can tell "trappermike" knows his chit. ANY one who understands and have worked on those old mercs can't be all that bad! I understand the grading system and all that. Two years ago I would never have thought of using anything but OEM recommended bearings & seals. AND when in doubt, OEM is ALWAYS the safest call. But my Huztl 372 & those MS660's project saws have Chinese bearings & seals. Huztl saw has a significant amount of really hard time, especially last winter when the temperatures were Sooo cooold! No problems yet. And the "Nylon caged" OEM bearings for early 372 X-torqs were at one time blamed for premature failures on the clutch side ... was it real?? I don't know. All I can do is speculate AND report my experiences both good and bad. Huztl saw is still cutting at a furious rate.
I guess my cut is if you are building a saw from scratch buy the best bearings and seals you can afford. If you have a saw or bought a saw built with Huztl/Chinese seals I wouldn't be afraid of it as I have seen nothing to make me want to dive in and replace those bearings and seals I have in my Chinese saws.
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) and aftermarket automotive oil seals are two types of seals used in vehicles. OEM seals are made by the same manufacturer as the original equipment installed in the vehicle, while aftermarket seals are made by third-party manufacturers.
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Here are some of the key differences between OEM and aftermarket automotive oil seals:
Aspect
OEM
Aftermarket
Quality
OEM seals are made to the same specifications as the original equipment and are designed to fit and function perfectly in the vehicle.
Aftermarket seals may not be made to the same specifications as the original equipment and may not fit or function as well as OEM seals.
Price
OEM seals are typically more expensive than aftermarket seals due to the higher quality and the fact that they are made by the same manufacturer as the original equipment.
Aftermarket seals are usually less expensive than OEM seals due to lower production costs and competition among manufacturers.
Availability
OEM seals can only be purchased from authorized dealers or directly from the manufacturer.
Aftermarket seals are widely available from a variety of sources, including auto parts stores, online retailers, and third-party manufacturers.
Warranty
OEM seals may be covered by a warranty from the vehicle manufacturer or the seal manufacturer.
Aftermarket seals may or may not be covered by a warranty from the manufacturer or the retailer.
OEM seals are made by the same manufacturer as the original equipment, and are designed for perfect installation and operation in vehicles. They are usually more expensive, but they are of better quality and may have a warranty. Seals in the accessories market are made by third-party manufacturers. Many inferior manufacturers may not be as suitable or effective as OEM seals, but they are usually cheaper and widely available (all oil seals of NNK can perfectly replace the original oil seals, and the price is very favorable). The above table compares the main differences between OEM and after-sales automobile oil seals.
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