I'm not a fan of poly pipe and never will be. That being said, if you do decide to use it, make sure you use at least 160 or 200 psi rated pipe, not 100 psi. I suspect that 100 psi being the standard here has a lot to do with my hatred of the stuff. If you do decide to use 100 psi, make sure you keep plenty of sharp shovels and digging tools handy because you will be doing plenty of repair work on a ft line. I think if you look hard enough you can find it in 500' or greater rolls which will reduce the connections.
I have not looked at the specs so I'm not sure what the head loss would be on an ' run, but I would at least go with 1.25" or 1.5" pipe, depending on your flow requirements. Be sure to make your ditch as straight as possible and I would try to backfill with sand or such if at all possible.
Thanks everyone.
Sorry for sounding naïve here, trying to gain knowledge so not to waste money on my next attempt at a good well but let me ask a more generic question.
I know a ' run from well to house will be pricey, what would be your thoughts on things to be concerned with? Risks? Ways to save on cost?
Ie. My knowlegde of poly pipe is that one measure is a psi number. So what is this? Do I need to be c
oncerned about pressure inside the pipe and/ or outside the pipe (pressure of the ground to bury pipe)
This well will be for house, tub draws most water at about 3gpm.
Ill take all advice, direct or indirect regarding my " ' haul from well risks".
Thanks again
Like Texas Wellman said "Be sure to make your ditch as straight as possible and I would try to backfill with sand or such if at all possible."
I would go with 1.5 inch if you want a good flow rate, for that foot distance.
The higher the pressure rating, the less chance that it will collapse under the shifting grounds weight.
There is more to it than the pressure that it can hold under water pressure.
It can get crushed, if driven over and the ground dirt shifting.
I like schedule 40 PVC myself. Cost more but last a lifetime.
Enjoy your project.
DonL
the chances of 160# poly being damaged merely by shifting earth are like one in a million. it's worth the extra cost over the 100# poly, not because you need it to sustain the water pressure but just for having thicker walls for general wear and tear during installation and future shovels that may hit it. if you trench it a good couple feet under the ground and pack earth back over it solidly ie no air pockets you won't have any trouble unless you're really driving heavy machinery over it. the other danger is freezing but i live in the subtropics and dont know crap about that. the ground pressure at that depth is inconsequential. the nice thing about poly is that for the size you will have the last amount of pressure loss assuming you make a nice straight trench, you dont have to mess with a bunch of couplings. PVC is great too, but it's really a personal preference and based on local prices. go with at least 1 1/4 and you wont need to worry about flow rate issues.
just consider when somebody makes a geothermal loop where they've got thousands of feet of buried pipe they make it out of poly. it will essentially last forever just like the PVC and there's less to get wrong.
you definitely could use 100# poly, you're not going to have over 100 pounds of pressure in that pipe ever, but it's sort of skimping it if you plan on having this thing operating for decades to come.
i'd be more concerned about the well, moving water feet on land is relatively easy compared to digging over a hundred feet into the earth and hoping you get a steady water supply. make sure you talk to people in the area and aren't drilling a hole to nowheresville.
Like Texas Wellman said "Be sure to make your ditch as straight as possible and I would try to backfill with sand or such if at all possible."
I would go with 1.5 inch if you want a good flow rate, for that foot distance.
The higher the pressure rating, the less chance that it will collapse under the shifting grounds weight.
There is more to it than the pressure that it can hold under water pressure.
It can get crushed, if driven over and the ground dirt shifting.
I like schedule 40 PVC myself. Cost more but last a lifetime.
Enjoy your project.
DonL
Actually Don the last time I priced sch 40 PVC to 160 or 200 psi poly the PVC was cheaper.
I prefer sch 40 belled end pvc for all my buried applications.
Poly pipe down the hole, of course. at least 160 psi. Poly to the house especially if you can get a ' roll. But you NEED to know how to make the poly joints correctly.
20' sticks of bell end PVC here are about .25 a foot vs. .57 cents a foot for poly.
The PVC you can build on the surface and kick it in the hole the next day just like Poly. If its not in a road, a few inches of clean dirt cover is all you need before backfill.
1'' will work especially if the tank is at the house. 1-1/4 isn't much more money in PVC.
FIFY
The glue only takes minutes to dry.
Poly pipe down the hole, of course. at least 160 psi. Poly to the house especially if you can get a ' roll. But you NEED to know how to make the poly joints correctly.
20' sticks of bell end PVC here are about .25 a foot vs. .57 cents a foot for poly.
The PVC you can build on the surface and kick it in the hole the within minutes just like Poly. If its not in a road, a few inches of clean dirt cover is all you need before backfill.
1'' will work especially if the tank is at the house. 1-1/4 isn't much more money in PVC.
Ballvalve, always thinking of living by yourself in a one bath home.
Most of us have family. They have needs too.
It reminds me of a Boeing Engineer that was bragging about how small a pipe he ran from the well to the house. Like that was a good thing.
My friend that I was plumbing a home for, another Boeing Engineer, took my advice and ran 1.5"
He has three acres and was installing some irrigation for the huge lawn, and has three bathrooms.
His house is about 400 feet from the street.
He had kids, so getting everyone off for school in the morning was important.
It has been almost 36 years since we added presoak, tire/motor, spot free etc & started using some 1/4" plastic or nylon tubing. We also use the same tubing to lock & unlock our overhead doors. We notice that we are getting more frequent leaks lately.... do any of you think it would be a good idea to buy some large capacity reels of the various colored & clear tubing & go to work & replace all of the tubing ... some of which seems to have some slight brittleness.
I know there are other factors but we protect the tubing from sunlight-ultraviolet light etc running it through 4" PVC. We might have been a bit careless on having more than 100psi on some of the lines ... especially the overhead door locking air cylinders that a machine shop assisted us with custom setting up the air cylinder locking pins etc.
I don't believe the john guest fitting are the problem ... it appears to point more towards the tubing getting older etc???
1/4" plastic or nylon tubing
Nylon is plastic.
We notice that we are getting more frequent leaks lately.... do any of you think it would be a good idea to buy some large capacity reels of the various colored & clear tubing & go to work & replace all of the tubing ... some of which seems to have some slight brittleness.
As opposed to continually making repairs?
We might have been a bit careless on having more than 100psi on some of the lines
1/4" N11 and N12 Nylon tubing is rated to 250 PSI working pressure. Polypropylene is 100 PSI.
I don't believe the john guest fitting are the problem ... it appears to point more towards the tubing getting older etc???
What's failing, the fittings or the tubing?
It has been almost 36 years since we added presoak, tire/motor, spot free etc & started using some 1/4" plastic or nylon tubing. We also use the same tubing to lock & unlock our overhead doors. We notice that we are getting more frequent leaks lately.... do any of you think it would be a good idea to buy some large capacity reels of the various colored & clear tubing & go to work & replace all of the tubing ... some of which seems to have some slight brittleness.
I know there are other factors but we protect the tubing from sunlight-ultraviolet light etc running it through 4" PVC. We might have been a bit careless on having more than 100psi on some of the lines ... especially the overhead door locking air cylinders that a machine shop assisted us with custom setting up the air cylinder locking pins etc.
I don't believe the john guest fitting are the problem ... it appears to point more towards the tubing getting older etc???
36 years old? I just replaced all of my tubing and it was 26 years old. It was popping up with leaks everywhere! I think it’s time to replace it!
Nylon is plastic.
As opposed to continually making repairs?
1/4" N11 and N12 Nylon tubing is rated to 250 PSI working pressure. Polypropylene is 100 PSI.
What's failing, the fittings or the tubing?
What Car Wash distributors sells the nylon? We might consider that during our ... ugh... possible redo.
I tried turning down the pressure to <75 PSI anywhere ... that leads in & out of our 6 bays ... maybe that will buy us time if nothing else. Quality manpower tends to be more costly than it used to be.
What's failing, the fittings or the tubing?
Most of the time a gradually wearing from friction the tubing itself. Sometimes it breaks off right at the fitting connection ... which does not mean the fitting was at fault. I would think that just because the tubing touches other tubing it would not wear through ... but then eventually I suppose over 36 years time it can be a factor.
I am assuming the polyethylene that Buckeye mentioned is the more common choice & includes the ability to choose colors.
BTW .. 2 of my helpers have difficulty hearing the leaks ... which means sometimes the air compressor runs & wears out faster!
The John Guest tubing is polypropylene, which they claim is 130 PSI working pressure, but IIRC it says 100 on the tubing. About 20 years ago I installed a trifoam system with it, all the tubing run in an attic so no UV on it, and I had to replace it at about the 12 year mark because it started springing leaks all over the place. I won't use it again.
I get Nylon N12 tubing that comes from Freelin-Wade. It's quite a bit more than PP but it lasts decades, and has a 250 PSI working pressure. I don't use push-to-connect tubing fittings at all anymore, only compression.
Randy & others,
Is this the one: https://www.freelin-wade.com/nylon-plastic-tubing/dot223
At one time I somewhat on a very small scale used compression fittings for the 1/4" OD plastic tubing at one time but I never did a comparison of reliability. I know the John Guest connectors are quicker to put on & off & possibly have a better re-use capability than compression fittings.
Thanks for the tips on freelin-wade. I've just always stayed with natural, didn't realize one brand was head and shoulders better than the others,.
It's also a lot less expensive than most others. The only downside is that it's sort of "grippy" against itself which makes it harder to pull to the bays, but it's not a huge problem.